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Venetian masks tradition: the real beauty of Carnevale

The Coronavirus might have hit the city of bridges and canals, but it didn’t hit its spirit. Carnival 2021 is a go, even in this pandemic uncertainty. It might come as a surprise, but Venice isn’t giving up on its colorful celebrations.

It’s just doing it differently.

Venetian Carnival & Covid-19

The dates to mark on the calendar are two: from February 6 to 7, and from February 11 to 16th. There won’t be any audience on the streets because the audience will be online. From the comfort of home, anyone can stream the event and join in the fun.

As the official reports, people will be able to watch shows, listen to short stories, and participate in Virtual Rooms. There are three types of rooms, divided by age groups. While kids can enjoy workshops, the parents can watch the competitions and interviews with the protagonists. People must register to join the Virtual Rooms.

On the other hand, the live streaming doesn’t require any registration. It’s still Venice, only this year, travelers won’t need to catch a flight. A comfortable couch, a colorful mask, and time are enough.

But how did the Carnival look before Covid-19?

The art and history of Venetian mask making tradition

We are inthe midst of Carnevale celebrations and we can’t help thinking- or for the luckier ones,experiencing in reality– abouthowbeautiful and artistic some of the masks worn around are and there aren’t any more beautiful than those produced by the Venetian masks tradition.

Mind, I’m actually talking about the physicalmasks you place on your face, rather thanthe characters we associateto Commedia dell’Arteand that became, throughoutthe centuries, symbols of humanquirks and geographical locations. Well, if you’re interested in Arlecchino and co., you can check out ourarticle Italian traditional masks for Carnivalto get to know them better.

Here, we’ll concentrateon the beautiful papiermaché creationstypical of the Venetian masks tradition that, for centuries, have been surrounded by an aura of mystery and awe.There’s a lot to know about them and how they’re made, and it should come as nosurprise – considering Italy, the land of tradition and heritage love, ishome to them – to learn thetechniques used today are very much still the same as those en voguemany centuries ago.

Venice, of course, is were the game is at: the most baroque and luscious of allCarnevaliis where masks give the best of themselves. At thevery beginning “maschera” meant, quite simply, to put on fake moustaches and beard, and was very often used to refer to womendressing like men and men dressing like women: being “in maschera” was, in the end, the Venetian way to say“being in drag”. And, indeed, as it was about 20 to 30 years ago for drag, thepeople of medieval and renaissance Venice would consider the act of dressing upand wearing“maschere” a symbol of freedom and transgression: funny to see how history repeats itself, sometimes.

Let’s travel to Venice then,where many, many centuries ago, it all began. And believe me,there is more than Carnevale celebrations behind the love storybetween La Serenissima and her“maschere”…

Venetian masks tradition
Venetian masks tradition: once upon a time, they were a status symbol. Ph. Toren Monson on flickr (flic.kr/p/egim4K)

Venetian Masks tradition, or “maschere” and Venice

It would be difficult to fullygrasp the obsession of Venice with maskswithout talkinghistory for a bit.Step back into the 13th century and you’ll find thefirst official reference to“maschere” in a Venetian context: the city government had to promulgate a lawlimiting theimproper publicuse of masks in 1268,because ofthe worrying amount of mask-wearing men,“i mattaccini,”strollingaroundthe“calli”. Mattaccini were keen onthe gameof“ova” (eggs) whichconsisted in throwing eggs filled with rose water to the unluckywomen passing by.

In the 14th century, Venice had already began earning the reputation of fun capital of Europe, and Venetians becamefamous for their penchant for a life of excesses.Early Libertines (libertinage is usually considered more of a 17th and 18th century phenomenon)made large use of masks to keep their identity secret in public, but especially to rise that aura of oh-so-cool mystery that made them all the more attractive. In orderto limit themoral degradation of La Serenissima, leaders decided to forbid the use of masks, apart for the period of Carnevale.

Prostitutes and men frequenting them were not allowed to wear maskseither, as it was thought – or hoped – that lack ofanonymity would have refrained people from practicing or exploiting prostitution.

Similar laws were issued in the 17th and 18th centuries, always with the aim oflimitingthe public use ofmasksoutside of the weeks of Carnevale, and protect Venice’s own morals and respectability. In fact, it’s for this very same reason that, in 1776, a law imposing the use ofmasks towomengoing to theatre was created. Now, if only the Doge and his crew made up their mind…

The more theruling élite of LaSerenissima frowned uponmask wearing, the more Venetians became obsessed with them.

If Carnevale was theonly moment ofthe year theycould step out on their gondolas wearing a“maschera,” than it’d better be the“maschera” of a lifetime:demands for Carnevale masks, more and more precious, more and moreextravagant, grew exponentially throughoutthe decades, generating a newartisticfigure in the city, that of the“mascheraio,” Venice’s own mask maker.

In 1773, at the height of Baroque and of Giacomo Casanova’s popularity amongrich and beautiful Venetian coquettes – and nuns, apparently – there were 12 officially recorded mask making ateliers in the city: not a large number considering the demand. Historians appear to agree it’s very likely many moreateliers operated on theblack market, milking as much as possible the gold pleated pockets of rich Venetian lords and damsels, butalso giving stableemploymentto a large number of people.

Alas, these memorable times of opulence, wealth and joie de vivre were to come to an end when the Hapsburgconquered the Republic of Venice, making it part of their empire. They almost immediately forbade the public use of masks, even during Carnevale, thus limiting their presence to private receptions. This is why Venice’sAustrian years are considered a pretty gloomy period for the lovers of disguise.

Venetian masks tradition
When the Austrian conquered La Serenissima, wearing masking in public was banned. Ph. TiaKatty

Venetian masks tradition and its secrets, once upon a time and today.

As it oftenhappens when it comes to arts andcrafts, each atelier was known for a certain way of decorating or shaping masks, but the basictechnique for their making was the same for all.Yesterday and today, theheart of mask making in Venice ispapier maché or“cartapesta,” a material symbol not only ofCarnevale art, but also of Presepe and religious artistic expression.

The procedure starts withaterra-cottasculpture of the mask, which is then covered with plaster. Once the plaster molding is dry, the proper maskmaking process starts: today, the mold is rubbed with vaseline to avoid stacking and then filled with thin layers of wet and glued papier maché,which has to be cut in small pieces and placed in by hand, so that each crevice of the mold is filled. This is essential to give Venetianmasks that realistic feel and wealth of details they’re known for.

The mold with its preciouspapier maché filling is then put into special ovens where the masks are allowed to fully dry. Once they’re, eyes, nostrils and mouth holes are cut, the mask issanded to make the surface smooth, then varnished and waxed.After this,the most fascinating of all processes starts: decoration.

Real, authentic Venetian masks, inthe past and today, areunique pieces,hand made and hand decorated: thevariety of pigments and materials used topersonalized them is endless: acrylic paints, feathers, goldand silver leaf, macramé and lace, beads and crystals, precious fabrics and components, all the way to music sheets, tarot cards, and anything their creator sees fit to make them outstanding,can be used to produce atruly unique piece.

Mask making always aimed not simply at creating a beautiful piece, but also atmaking it last: this is why these techniques allow forthe final product to be both eye catching, yetsturdy and lightenough to be worn again and again.

Venetian masks tradition
Gold leaf, feathers, crystals and beads are only some of the materials used to make authentic Venetian masks (Giorgio Minguzzi/Flickr flic.kr/p/7D93RG)

Venetian masks: types, prices and … beware of imitations!

Venetian masks are of three types: “maschere di Carnevale,” to be worn out and around, “maschere decorative,” made to be used as a decoration at home, and “maschere della Commedia dell’Arte,” strictly associated with its characters (think of Arlecchino, Pulcinella, Venice’s own Pantalone and so on). Traditional Carnevale masks are still people’s favorite and sell well all year round, not only during Carnevale: they truly are a symbol of Venice.

Authentic“maschere Veneziane” areunique, handmade pieces: they’re precious, timeless, opulent, beautiful. Their prices can vary greatly based on the type of materials used to decorated them, the complexity of the decorationitself and, of course, on themastery of the mask making artisan. Original Venetianmasks can really be priced anything between a handful of dollars to thousands.

Regardless to this, keep in mind one thing: original, made in Venice masks are hand made,as Venetian masks tradition wants. This means that, even when meant toreproduce the same pattern, theyare never supposed to look like they have been made with a cookie-cutter. Their originality lies also inthe quirkiness and uniqueness of their look, for which, it’strue, you may pay a bit more than what you expect, especially if you’re after something richer and more complex than average.

It’s important to state this because, as it happens with many original“made in Italy” products,it’s easy to comeacross cheaper, industrially made imitations, usually coming from China: believe it or not, they are sold even in Venice.

What a sad, sad thing to do.

One of the few real “mascherai”left in Venice today, Leonardo Faggian,owner of, has welldescribed the difficult situation faced by people in his trade because of the proliferation of industrially made masks in the city:“it’sunfortunate, but the increasingly highnumber of non-authentic, industrially made masks which have flooded the market in recent years, hasbeen putting us mascherai in difficulty. The market’ssaturatedwith plastic masks, or even made with papier maché, but industrially, without the same amount of details and skills. RealVenetian masks are unique piecesbecause entirely made and decorated by hand. Chinese masks, on the contrary, are all the same”.

Faggian warnstouristsvisiting Venice about theheavy presence of counterfeitmasks coming from China“… it’s so sad to think many peoplebring home acheap fake. And it’s sad to think aboutthe damage this is making to the city’s economy and to the art of mask making.”

Truly, a situation typical of so much of our most renowned products.

Buy legit,even from home

Venetian masks tradition
“Ca’del Sol” is one of Venice’s best known mask making aterliers Ph. Martin Cooper on flickr (flic.kr/p/gQPWck)

Mind, fake Venetian masks are usually sold in tourist shops, so if you stick to legit ateliers, of course, you’re safe.Many artisanal mask making ateliers have websiteswhere you can check and, in some cases,even buy,their creations. Imentioned above Faggian’s atelier, Mistero Buffo, which has been linked already.

Another popular atelier, well known around the world is Atelier Marega, a familyrun business,which alsoorganizes interesting workshops onmask making,masks’ history and mask decoration, all available for booking online: if this is yourcup of tea and are about tofly to Venice, youshould definitely check thoseout! Atelier Marega sells some of its creation online, both inthelinked website and on Etsy.

Of course, you can find them in loco, at San Polo 2940.

(Campo San Toma 2867) is anotherauthentic Venetian masks’ atelier,where you canfind anything from beautiful and affordable eye masks for 15 euro (around 16USD), to absolutely stunningpiecesworth over 250 euro (around 265USD). La Bauta has also an online shop,where you can get an idea of how their pieces,entirely made by hand, look like.

(Castello 4964) is one ofthe largest and bestknownmask ateliers in Venice. Once again, you can get an idea of theirbeautiful creations – andprice ranges – online.

Last but not least, an extremely original atelier, Myosotis Karima Arte (Santa Croce, 2125), lesser known than the others mentioned, but lead by equally talented artisans. Certainly the place to visit if you’re after something more unusual. Unfortunately, the shop doesn’t appear to have awebsite, but aquick google search will provide you with plenty of 5 starred Trip Advisor recensions, complete with many photos of theirbreathtaking pieces.

Francesca Bezzone

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